Snap out of it!

Sometimes I get in a climbing funk. I feel completely uninspired to climb. More often than not when this happens, I’m frustrated with climbing and I end up pushing myself to finish routes, just to finish them. I angrily wonder,

Why aren't they fun? Why can’t I make that move?

Right when I’m about to go on a climbing hiatus, it happens. A beautiful route appears in the climbing gym or outdoors at a crag. A route “calls” to me. I chalk up and begin climbing. The movements are my style and I think,

“This route was made for me!”

Too quickly the climb is over and I’m pumped for more. That settles it, it was clearly, meant to be! Magically, my whole outlook on climbing has changed, I am ready to take on every route with enthusiasm and energy.

After having this happen a few times, I thought, can I create this phenomenon on demand? Yes!

I believe it begins with learning my style and then re-shaping my attitude toward climbing.

When I think about the times I feel most frustrated with climbing, I am working on a route outside of my style. I begin to see the route as “beating me”. This frame of mind leads to my internal monologue, “why can’t I get that move?”, “this route is stupid”, “I can’t even get a (enter route grade)” etc. The longer I let this attitude and outlook fester the more it affects my climbing. Soon, I’m mentally blocking myself and I’m not even able to send routes that are my style. Which only leads to more frustration and negative thoughts like, “great, now I can’t even get (enter your favorite route)”, “stupid route”, “I suck” etc.

Snap out of it!

The first step is recognition. I recognize I am bumming myself out. Then, I need to re-shape my attitude toward climbing. I remind myself that, that route does not have a vendetta against me. The route’s grade isn't going to go on my permanent record - so I let it go. Grades aren't what's important, having fun is! A route that is not my style, is a challenge. It is an opportunity to work on building new muscles, new techniques and becoming a better more well-rounded climber. When all else fails, I go back to my happy place, that is, my climbing style or whatever else makes me happy and snaps me out of my current negative state. Sometimes playing a game on the wall is what I need to snap out of my frustration.

My style

I have found my climbing style to be a mix between the type of routes I most enjoy and the types of movement I most enjoy. I tend to seek out, Dihedral and Slab routes. A dihedral or open book route is located in the corner of a wall and you use counter-pressure to reach the top. A slab route is located on a very flat surface, tiny holds and requires balance. I’m good with routes that require technical, static movements and flexibility.

Things I have identified that aren't my style:

Dynamic movement (very much including dynos)

Roof climbs (overhanging routes)

I am currently projecting a route that includes both of the qualities I have identified as not my style; an overhang route with dynamic movements. I first attempted to climb it static but quickly learned it just was not set that way. I was bumming myself out with the first dynamic movement, “it is so hard!” “that hold is so far!”, “my arms aren't long enough” etc. I sat there feeling frustrated. My boyfriend sat next to me and said, “That move has to be dynamic. Make sure you’re using your legs to push off the wall when you’re making that move. You can do it.” And I did! Every time I attempt it, it gets easier and easier. I’m still stuck on the second dynamic movement but I’ll keep trying. If I can’t get it, I may just not have the strength -- yet.

You can check out a video I posted of the route on Instagram here! I will continue to post videos of my efforts on this particular route, until it gets taken down or I send it ;)

Do you have an approach you use to help get you out of a climbing funk?

What types of routes just “call to you”?

What is your climbing style?

Comment with your experiences, I love hearing from you!

Climbers Versus Washington Weather

The cold season has arrived in Washington State but that doesn’t keep us from optimistically hoping to continue climbing outdoors. Colin and I woke up at 6:30 am last Saturday eager to get our climb on. Seattle has been experiencing a cold front with beautiful clear skies and sunshine, which probably only added to our excitement (sunshine is like a drug for vitamin d deficient Seattleites). As we’re sitting on the couch gulping down hot coffee,we both take out our iPhones and open the WeatherApp. The app displays the current temperature on Mercer Island at 35 degrees Fahrenheit.

Does this frighten us? Nope, we basically turn to each other and say “wear warm clothes”. We are not afraid of bundling up. By 7:00 am we are heading out the door with our fully loaded packs. The car is completely covered in frost and ice. Does this seem like a warning sign? Nope, we take out the ice scraper and start warming up the car. Finally, we’re ready to hit interstate 90 for our destination, exit 38 in North Bend.

It probably should have seemed like foreshadowing that there were no other vehicles around at the crag parking area. The lot is normally filled, if not packed, with people in the summer time. We stuck with optimistic thoughts like, “We came early enough to beat the crowd!” and “we’ll have the crag all to ourselves”. Both of these ended up being true. By the time we left the crag a few hours later, there were two other vehicles there. And yes, we had the walls to ourselves the entire trip. Now do you feel the foreshadowing?

We reach the first crag of Exit 38 and *click*

Ah - cold, wet, icicles, everywhere.

Of course we had to take opportunities to enjoy the icicles ;)

Icicle gun

Then, we got down to business – found ourselves a dry, icicle free, warm up 5.9 route. It was a disaster... that "warm up" route, was far from warm and felt like I was attempting a 5.11c. Numb fingers, numb toes and gusts of wind. It ended up being the only route of the day.

You never know what you'll get here in the PNW but it was worth a shot anyways! The next day, Sunday, we headed out to Exit 32 with a couple friends. The temperatures were much warmer and the crag is located at a lower elevation then 38. Any weekend spent climbing, attempting to climb or just being outdoors is successful :)

Check out my instagram page for additional photos and videos from our trip with the icicles!

Stay warm during cold weather climbing

A few items we won't leave the house without

• Hand Warmers!
  Put these little puppies in your chalk bag, your fingers will thank you.


• Wind Resistant Pants!
  REI brand is our favorite, we love the zip pockets.


• A Down Jacket!
  It keeps you cozy and warm, especially when you belay.

Do you have items you won't leave the house without for climbing outdoors?

We want to know! Comment below with your go-to items :)

An iPhone app that allows you climb more and search less!

In my last post I was dreaming about guidebooks with GPS locations. The universe heard me and gave us one better, Rakkup! Rakkup is an iPhone application with turn for turn instructional guides and GPS locations. Oh and by universe I meant two awesome Seattlite climbers!

Image from: Adventure Journal

So more on Rakkup...It is a free to download iPhone application. Individual guides can be purchased for less than print cost. Our two Seattlites personally spent a week in California locating approaches and routes for their first guide release, Red Rocks. Here’s the good news fellow Seattlites, Rakkup has released a guidebook for a location right here in Washington state; Exit 32 in North Bend, home of the well-known crag called World Wall. For you Oregonians Rakkup's got you covered too with a guidebook for Smith Rocks.

A big question that must be lingering in your head, what if I don’t have any cellular service in the climbing area? Not a problem! Each guide downloads onto your phone and uses your phone’s GPS location to keep you heading in the right direction to the crags. Sweet right?!

We have a nice bookshelf that contains all of our pretty paperback guidebooks and what do we do? We pack up our gear and head out the door before grabbing it! I'm excited by the possibilities of never having to experience the disappointment when we realize we forgot our guide and we're already 1 hour away from home at the start of the trail head /facepalm. The day has come where we will no longer need additional gear except the one we always have in our pocket - our phone. Goodbye paperback guidebook, goodbye digital cameras, goodbye garmin gps systems...

I hope to test Rakkup in North Bend this weekend. Fingers crossed! Once I do I'll create a new post with my personal review. All previous information came from Rakkup.com and a review by Adventure Journal.

Cheers friends!

-Elle

80% looking for the crag & 20% climbing

I'm waiting for the day where guidebooks have gps locations for crags and real identifiable locator photos. Until then, it is just a known factor that when looking for a new spot you will spend 80% of your time looking for the climbing area and 20% actually climbing.

This weekend we decided to go to Vantage. Earlier this season we climbed on the sunshine wall and the feathers. This time the weather channel was forcasting abundant sunshine and 88 degree weather (woof). During the 2.5 car ride to Vantage, my boyfriend did a little guidebook reading and read up about shady spots. The guide mentioned a small wall that is shady from morning until about 1pm in the afternoon. Perfect!

So we began the 80% of the trip - finding the lower trail.

The guide led us to the lower parking lot area off of old vantage road. Then it instructed us to follow the well identified trail until we see a stack of rocks - take a left at the 'y' and follow the zig-zag to the lower trail and walls.

Hmmm...is it just me or do directions like this happen often? I recall last summer while bouldering in Leavenworth off of icicle creek the guide told us to look for the big "egg shaped" boulder located on the side of the road. If you have been to Leavenworth you'll know that is like being instructed to look for the pine tree in a forest filled with pines. VERY HELPFUL. Thanks...

We ran into a few other climbers walking along the well established trail. They had no idea there was an actual smaller trial leading to the lower walls. They just picked a spot to scramble up. Let me just say, we watched them do it and it didn't look the least bit enjoyable, not to mention dangerous.

My boyfriend is the persistent type, so our search continued for the smaller trail. We thought we spotted it so we started hiking up. Instead of a trail we found ourselves pulling at sketchy chossy rocks. I gave myself a bit of a fright when I yanked at a rock, it fell and I nearly tumbled. Then lo and behold we looked to our left and A TRAIL! A beautiful, well established TRAIL! We followed that little beauty and it took us to the glorious little shady wall spot. Okay, it actually wasn't that great of a wall, mostly lower 5.8, 5.9 routes. But for warm up it wasn't so bad. Plus in the heat it was fantastic! The light wind actually gave us chills as our sweat dried in the breeze - TMI?

On our way back down the trail, after we couldn't possibly take anymore direct sunshine, we stacked rocks at the beginning of the 'y' trail for the next group of people.

Now that we've found the trail and all of the wall of routes it leads to, we are ready for fall to bring around the cooler weather so we can climb! Next time it will be 80% climbing and 20% approaching the crag ;)

Here is a panoramic view of the echo basin on a gorgeous day in Eastern Washington!

Happy climbing guys!

-Elle