What I've learn about dynos

If you follow me on Instagram or you read my previous post, Snap out of it!, you know this week I have been working on dynamic movements. Here are a few things I have learned this week regarding dynos.

Dynamic movements are tough because when done right, they are controlled. I have to admit I was terrified when facing my selected dyno route this week. The scariest part for me is the fall. Anticipating a horrible fall for when I don't catch the hold.

After jumping a few times and realizing I could control my fall - I was able to focus more on my form and body movements. I am happy to blog that on my second day working on my dyno route I hit it, solid. Now, I'll be spending my next visit repeating the route :) Keep practicing until it flows smooth.

What techniques do you use when performing a dyno on a route?

Do you have any special training tips?

Come follow my adventures on Instagram and feel free to contact me anytime!

Snap out of it!

Sometimes I get in a climbing funk. I feel completely uninspired to climb. More often than not when this happens, I’m frustrated with climbing and I end up pushing myself to finish routes, just to finish them. I angrily wonder,

Why aren't they fun? Why can’t I make that move?

Right when I’m about to go on a climbing hiatus, it happens. A beautiful route appears in the climbing gym or outdoors at a crag. A route “calls” to me. I chalk up and begin climbing. The movements are my style and I think,

“This route was made for me!”

Too quickly the climb is over and I’m pumped for more. That settles it, it was clearly, meant to be! Magically, my whole outlook on climbing has changed, I am ready to take on every route with enthusiasm and energy.

After having this happen a few times, I thought, can I create this phenomenon on demand? Yes!

I believe it begins with learning my style and then re-shaping my attitude toward climbing.

When I think about the times I feel most frustrated with climbing, I am working on a route outside of my style. I begin to see the route as “beating me”. This frame of mind leads to my internal monologue, “why can’t I get that move?”, “this route is stupid”, “I can’t even get a (enter route grade)” etc. The longer I let this attitude and outlook fester the more it affects my climbing. Soon, I’m mentally blocking myself and I’m not even able to send routes that are my style. Which only leads to more frustration and negative thoughts like, “great, now I can’t even get (enter your favorite route)”, “stupid route”, “I suck” etc.

Snap out of it!

The first step is recognition. I recognize I am bumming myself out. Then, I need to re-shape my attitude toward climbing. I remind myself that, that route does not have a vendetta against me. The route’s grade isn't going to go on my permanent record - so I let it go. Grades aren't what's important, having fun is! A route that is not my style, is a challenge. It is an opportunity to work on building new muscles, new techniques and becoming a better more well-rounded climber. When all else fails, I go back to my happy place, that is, my climbing style or whatever else makes me happy and snaps me out of my current negative state. Sometimes playing a game on the wall is what I need to snap out of my frustration.

My style

I have found my climbing style to be a mix between the type of routes I most enjoy and the types of movement I most enjoy. I tend to seek out, Dihedral and Slab routes. A dihedral or open book route is located in the corner of a wall and you use counter-pressure to reach the top. A slab route is located on a very flat surface, tiny holds and requires balance. I’m good with routes that require technical, static movements and flexibility.

Things I have identified that aren't my style:

Dynamic movement (very much including dynos)

Roof climbs (overhanging routes)

I am currently projecting a route that includes both of the qualities I have identified as not my style; an overhang route with dynamic movements. I first attempted to climb it static but quickly learned it just was not set that way. I was bumming myself out with the first dynamic movement, “it is so hard!” “that hold is so far!”, “my arms aren't long enough” etc. I sat there feeling frustrated. My boyfriend sat next to me and said, “That move has to be dynamic. Make sure you’re using your legs to push off the wall when you’re making that move. You can do it.” And I did! Every time I attempt it, it gets easier and easier. I’m still stuck on the second dynamic movement but I’ll keep trying. If I can’t get it, I may just not have the strength -- yet.

You can check out a video I posted of the route on Instagram here! I will continue to post videos of my efforts on this particular route, until it gets taken down or I send it ;)

Do you have an approach you use to help get you out of a climbing funk?

What types of routes just “call to you”?

What is your climbing style?

Comment with your experiences, I love hearing from you!

Climbers Versus Washington Weather

The cold season has arrived in Washington State but that doesn’t keep us from optimistically hoping to continue climbing outdoors. Colin and I woke up at 6:30 am last Saturday eager to get our climb on. Seattle has been experiencing a cold front with beautiful clear skies and sunshine, which probably only added to our excitement (sunshine is like a drug for vitamin d deficient Seattleites). As we’re sitting on the couch gulping down hot coffee,we both take out our iPhones and open the WeatherApp. The app displays the current temperature on Mercer Island at 35 degrees Fahrenheit.

Does this frighten us? Nope, we basically turn to each other and say “wear warm clothes”. We are not afraid of bundling up. By 7:00 am we are heading out the door with our fully loaded packs. The car is completely covered in frost and ice. Does this seem like a warning sign? Nope, we take out the ice scraper and start warming up the car. Finally, we’re ready to hit interstate 90 for our destination, exit 38 in North Bend.

It probably should have seemed like foreshadowing that there were no other vehicles around at the crag parking area. The lot is normally filled, if not packed, with people in the summer time. We stuck with optimistic thoughts like, “We came early enough to beat the crowd!” and “we’ll have the crag all to ourselves”. Both of these ended up being true. By the time we left the crag a few hours later, there were two other vehicles there. And yes, we had the walls to ourselves the entire trip. Now do you feel the foreshadowing?

We reach the first crag of Exit 38 and *click*

Ah - cold, wet, icicles, everywhere.

Of course we had to take opportunities to enjoy the icicles ;)

Icicle gun

Then, we got down to business – found ourselves a dry, icicle free, warm up 5.9 route. It was a disaster... that "warm up" route, was far from warm and felt like I was attempting a 5.11c. Numb fingers, numb toes and gusts of wind. It ended up being the only route of the day.

You never know what you'll get here in the PNW but it was worth a shot anyways! The next day, Sunday, we headed out to Exit 32 with a couple friends. The temperatures were much warmer and the crag is located at a lower elevation then 38. Any weekend spent climbing, attempting to climb or just being outdoors is successful :)

Check out my instagram page for additional photos and videos from our trip with the icicles!

Stay warm during cold weather climbing

A few items we won't leave the house without

• Hand Warmers!
  Put these little puppies in your chalk bag, your fingers will thank you.


• Wind Resistant Pants!
  REI brand is our favorite, we love the zip pockets.


• A Down Jacket!
  It keeps you cozy and warm, especially when you belay.

Do you have items you won't leave the house without for climbing outdoors?

We want to know! Comment below with your go-to items :)

Climbers Against Cancer

I'm sure we all have a connection to someone who currently has or previously fought against cancer. My family is no exception. My paternal grandmother died from breast cancer in her early forties, one of the brightest youngest quality assurance engineers I work with fought cancer as a kid and a close family friend is in remission after fighting stage 3 breast cancer. KITV news recently did a short video segment on her fight in their 55-day sault to people who are helping with the fight against breast cancer. Aunty Colette's story is inspirational and emotional - a mother of five with the determination to fight. You can watch it here.

There are fighters all around the world. They fight for different reasons and fight in different ways but they all fight for the same cause - cancer. John Ellison is a rock climber and he has terminal cancer. John is the founder of the initiative, Climbers Against Cancer. This is John's way of fighting - to raise awareness and to help find a cure.

In short I am terminally ill and my clock is ticking. This you may say is my ‘crux’ and I either fall or push on to the summit. For me there was only one option and since that day I have kept on climbing, taking in the beauty around me and enjoying every challenge that lies ahead. 

Whilst thinking about the possibilities of ‘Climbers Against Cancer’ as an idea I remembered the saying ‘strength in numbers’ and how the world of climbing as a family has so much power to deliver a message across the globe. If, as a group of friends, we come together and support ‘CAC’ it can help others in the future by raising awareness and funds to further research into finally finding a cure for cancer!  

If you click on "Stories" on the Climbers Against Cancer web page you can read some truly inspirational experiences from people in our climbing community - fellow climbers who have been affected by cancer. I found this story called "The Warrior Within" particularly moving.

What can you do if you feel motivated to make a difference?

• Donate to one of the many initivatives/organizations out there (Climbers Against Cancer, Susan G Komen, Cancer Research, Fight Cancer, etc.)
• Run a marathon
• Buy a t-shirt/sticker/sweat shirt from one of the organizations and spread the word
• Buy a crash pad or rock climbing hold from HERA for Ovarian Cancer
• Dedicate a climb to someone you know with cancer
• Write a blog post ;)
• If you have a story, share it!

Here we are in our CAC shirts - helping in the fight <3


Climb on!

-Elle

An iPhone app that allows you climb more and search less!

In my last post I was dreaming about guidebooks with GPS locations. The universe heard me and gave us one better, Rakkup! Rakkup is an iPhone application with turn for turn instructional guides and GPS locations. Oh and by universe I meant two awesome Seattlite climbers!

Image from: Adventure Journal

So more on Rakkup...It is a free to download iPhone application. Individual guides can be purchased for less than print cost. Our two Seattlites personally spent a week in California locating approaches and routes for their first guide release, Red Rocks. Here’s the good news fellow Seattlites, Rakkup has released a guidebook for a location right here in Washington state; Exit 32 in North Bend, home of the well-known crag called World Wall. For you Oregonians Rakkup's got you covered too with a guidebook for Smith Rocks.

A big question that must be lingering in your head, what if I don’t have any cellular service in the climbing area? Not a problem! Each guide downloads onto your phone and uses your phone’s GPS location to keep you heading in the right direction to the crags. Sweet right?!

We have a nice bookshelf that contains all of our pretty paperback guidebooks and what do we do? We pack up our gear and head out the door before grabbing it! I'm excited by the possibilities of never having to experience the disappointment when we realize we forgot our guide and we're already 1 hour away from home at the start of the trail head /facepalm. The day has come where we will no longer need additional gear except the one we always have in our pocket - our phone. Goodbye paperback guidebook, goodbye digital cameras, goodbye garmin gps systems...

I hope to test Rakkup in North Bend this weekend. Fingers crossed! Once I do I'll create a new post with my personal review. All previous information came from Rakkup.com and a review by Adventure Journal.

Cheers friends!

-Elle

80% looking for the crag & 20% climbing

I'm waiting for the day where guidebooks have gps locations for crags and real identifiable locator photos. Until then, it is just a known factor that when looking for a new spot you will spend 80% of your time looking for the climbing area and 20% actually climbing.

This weekend we decided to go to Vantage. Earlier this season we climbed on the sunshine wall and the feathers. This time the weather channel was forcasting abundant sunshine and 88 degree weather (woof). During the 2.5 car ride to Vantage, my boyfriend did a little guidebook reading and read up about shady spots. The guide mentioned a small wall that is shady from morning until about 1pm in the afternoon. Perfect!

So we began the 80% of the trip - finding the lower trail.

The guide led us to the lower parking lot area off of old vantage road. Then it instructed us to follow the well identified trail until we see a stack of rocks - take a left at the 'y' and follow the zig-zag to the lower trail and walls.

Hmmm...is it just me or do directions like this happen often? I recall last summer while bouldering in Leavenworth off of icicle creek the guide told us to look for the big "egg shaped" boulder located on the side of the road. If you have been to Leavenworth you'll know that is like being instructed to look for the pine tree in a forest filled with pines. VERY HELPFUL. Thanks...

We ran into a few other climbers walking along the well established trail. They had no idea there was an actual smaller trial leading to the lower walls. They just picked a spot to scramble up. Let me just say, we watched them do it and it didn't look the least bit enjoyable, not to mention dangerous.

My boyfriend is the persistent type, so our search continued for the smaller trail. We thought we spotted it so we started hiking up. Instead of a trail we found ourselves pulling at sketchy chossy rocks. I gave myself a bit of a fright when I yanked at a rock, it fell and I nearly tumbled. Then lo and behold we looked to our left and A TRAIL! A beautiful, well established TRAIL! We followed that little beauty and it took us to the glorious little shady wall spot. Okay, it actually wasn't that great of a wall, mostly lower 5.8, 5.9 routes. But for warm up it wasn't so bad. Plus in the heat it was fantastic! The light wind actually gave us chills as our sweat dried in the breeze - TMI?

On our way back down the trail, after we couldn't possibly take anymore direct sunshine, we stacked rocks at the beginning of the 'y' trail for the next group of people.

Now that we've found the trail and all of the wall of routes it leads to, we are ready for fall to bring around the cooler weather so we can climb! Next time it will be 80% climbing and 20% approaching the crag ;)

Here is a panoramic view of the echo basin on a gorgeous day in Eastern Washington!

Happy climbing guys!

-Elle

Why do rope bags have one strap?

We recently purchased a rope bag for our new Sterling Rope (that we LOVE). One of our favorite places to go outdoor rope climbing is the exits - exit 32 or 38 in North Bend Washington. We don’t have a very long approach for either exit but our new rope bag is turning out to be less than desirable.

The Edelrid Caddy rope bag has a great bucket concept. There are rope tie-ins on the inside and a fantastic tarp that folds out and nicely stuffs back in but it has one shoulder strap. The more time we spend looking at different rope bags the more we see bags featuring a single strap approach. Why? Even with a short approach to a crag carrying a 70 meter rope + shoes + quick draws and chalk bag gets mighty heavy for a single shoulder to bear. So I ask again, why?

On our second crag trip with the Edelrid Caddy rope bag we attempted to stuff it into a backpack for easier carrying – its rotund shape did not like being stuffed into another pack nor did it easily pulled back out of the pack. Even with its awesome bucket concept, loops and tarp it was returned to REI. It is apparent, we need a rope bag with two straps - a backpack approach.

There are some great backpack rope bags out there that we would love to own - but their prices are outragous! We are looking for a reasonably priced backpack rope and gear bag. We are thinking of trying out the Speedster next. I'm still drawing a big wtf on why there are so many one strap rope bags out there...

If you have any other suggestions or experience with the Speedster please comment with them below :)

Climb on!

-Elle

Crux Wednesdays

If you are a Harry Potter fan and read the title of this post, crux is not short for horcrux :P But I do mean crux in reference to a portion of a climbing route.

This morning a coworker greeted me with a cheery "happy hump day!" Her words lingered throughout the day as I was stuck indoors. Naturally, my mind wandered to climbing.

A crux in a climbing route is the hardest section. It's usually the part that gives you trouble and prevents you from flashing or red pointing a route. Wednesday's are like a crux in a climbing route. It's the middle of the week and I feel tired from the activities that happened on Monday and Tuesday. My brain doesn't want to function as it blankly stares at my computer screen. Just like in a climbing route, once the crux is over the rest of the route or week feels like a breeze - or breezier. 

After pushing through a crux and wrapping up the remaining moves, a sense of bliss washes over me as I either A) clip into the anchors or B) hang onto the last bouldering hold with complete control. Another route complete! Similarly, as the clock strikes 5:00 pm on a Friday, heck yeah, BLISS! Hello weekend and outdoor climbing!

We made it through the week's crux! Just a few more days to go :) Until then, I'll be dreaming I'm outdoors, getting my climb on....

Climbing in Leavenworth Washington - pockets for days

As usual, if any of the climbing terminology went over your head, here's the vocab!

Crux

The most difficult portion of a climb

-From: Wikipedia Climbing Glossary Terms 

Flash

To climb a route first time without practice but with beta. Climbing it without beta would be an on sight.

-From: Rock Climbing Glossary 

Red Point

In sport climbing, the term redpointing refers to free-climbing a route, while lead climbing, after having practiced the route beforehand (either by leading with frequent rests on a rope - for which the team "hangdogging" arose - or by top roping). Many climbers will frequently try to redpoint a route after having failed to onsight or flash it; although occasionally a climber will forgo an onsight attempt if they suspect that the route is so difficult that an attempt would be pointless.

-From: Wikipedia Redpoint Climbing 

-Elle

Climbing I love It

I believe your first climb or two will determine your relationship with rock climbing. Either you'll love it or you won't.

My very first pseudo-climb was in college. I say pseudo-climb because I didn't have proper climbing shoes and I had no one to guide me. You see, my university had a climbing wall, and as long as you stayed below a certain height, you could climb what you wanted. Attempting the climbing wall was a whim decision and lasted maybe ten minutes before we continued to our regular gym activities (probably to elliptical -- snore).

My next introduction to climbing however was the true start of it all. A college friend's cousin owns a climbing gym in Tacoma Washington called Edgeworks. A group of people were car pooling down together to have a bit of climbing fun. It was the beginning of a weekly event. Every week I could feel myself improving. I was learning more about my body, how to position it, how to make certain movements and how to trust my feet. 

Many people assume rock climbing is all about your upper body strength, it's not. Rock climbers, like Ballet dancers have strong feet, ankles and calves. As you begin to advance from V0-V2 beginner routes, to more challenging sets, your feet holds get smaller and smaller. You often end up relying on chips that only fit the tip of your rock climbing shoe. The same goes for hand holds, you learn to embrace crimpers ;) I often find myself now saying, don't worry it's a great little crimper! 

I started off bouldering and then rapidly got belay certified and began rope climbing. Soon climbing once a week wasn't cutting it. Then we discovered Seattle Bouldering Project. The largest indoor bouldering gym in the world, heaven! Okay, almost heaven. It's down fall is exactly what's so amazing about it, it's only bouldering.  To supplement, once or twice a month I'll go to Stone Gardens Bellevue, to top rope and lead climb - mostly as training for outdoors.

Last summer I dipped a toe in outdoor climbing. First stop, bouldering in Leavenworth WA. It was a whole new playing field! I was not prepared for the mental game that goes with outdoor climbing. During one of my first climbs I couldn't stop thinking about how heigh up I was on the rock and how far I had to fall - on what seemed like a teeny tiny crash pad. I had a committing move to make and sweaty hands. I eventually found for me to succeed on rocks outdoors I have to shut out the world; calm my mind, thinking about the sequence I must perform and breath.

Leavenworth is filled with granite! Granite is great because of the amount of friction you get but when your fingers aren't use to the sharp crysals your skin wears down fast! By the end of the day my fingers are pulsing and my pads blood red.

Last fall I dipped another toe in outdoor climbing. Lead climbing at the exits in North Bend Washington - Exit 32 and Exit 38. After bouldering outdoor lead climbing felt less scary. Though, it carries its own amount of risk with placing biners correctly and trusting your belayer. I'll elaborate more next time.

Gotta stop typing now, it's time to get my climb on!

-Elle