Sometimes I get in a climbing funk. I feel completely uninspired to climb. More often than not when this happens, I’m frustrated with climbing and I end up pushing myself to finish routes, just to finish them. I angrily wonder,
Why aren't they fun? Why can’t I make that move?
Right when I’m about to go on a climbing hiatus, it happens. A beautiful route appears in the climbing gym or outdoors at a crag. A route “calls” to me. I chalk up and begin climbing. The movements are my style and I think,
“This route was made for me!”
Too quickly the climb is over and I’m pumped for more. That settles it, it was clearly, meant to be! Magically, my whole outlook on climbing has changed, I am ready to take on every route with enthusiasm and energy.
After having this happen a few times, I thought, can I create this phenomenon on demand? Yes!
I believe it begins with learning my style and then re-shaping my attitude toward climbing.
When I think about the times I feel most frustrated with climbing, I am working on a route outside of my style. I begin to see the route as “beating me”. This frame of mind leads to my internal monologue, “why can’t I get that move?”, “this route is stupid”, “I can’t even get a (enter route grade)” etc. The longer I let this attitude and outlook fester the more it affects my climbing. Soon, I’m mentally blocking myself and I’m not even able to send routes that are my style. Which only leads to more frustration and negative thoughts like, “great, now I can’t even get (enter your favorite route)”, “stupid route”, “I suck” etc.
Snap out of it!
The first step is recognition. I recognize I am bumming myself out. Then, I need to re-shape my attitude toward climbing. I remind myself that, that route does not have a vendetta against me. The route’s grade isn't going to go on my permanent record - so I let it go. Grades aren't what's important, having fun is! A route that is not my style, is a challenge. It is an opportunity to work on building new muscles, new techniques and becoming a better more well-rounded climber. When all else fails, I go back to my happy place, that is, my climbing style or whatever else makes me happy and snaps me out of my current negative state. Sometimes playing a game on the wall is what I need to snap out of my frustration.
My style
I have found my climbing style to be a mix between the type of routes I most enjoy and the types of movement I most enjoy. I tend to seek out, Dihedral and Slab routes. A dihedral or open book route is located in the corner of a wall and you use counter-pressure to reach the top. A slab route is located on a very flat surface, tiny holds and requires balance. I’m good with routes that require technical, static movements and flexibility.
Things I have identified that aren't my style:
Dynamic movement (very much including dynos)
Roof climbs (overhanging routes)
I am currently projecting a route that includes both of the qualities I have identified as not my style; an overhang route with dynamic movements. I first attempted to climb it static but quickly learned it just was not set that way. I was bumming myself out with the first dynamic movement, “it is so hard!” “that hold is so far!”, “my arms aren't long enough” etc. I sat there feeling frustrated. My boyfriend sat next to me and said, “That move has to be dynamic. Make sure you’re using your legs to push off the wall when you’re making that move. You can do it.” And I did! Every time I attempt it, it gets easier and easier. I’m still stuck on the second dynamic movement but I’ll keep trying. If I can’t get it, I may just not have the strength -- yet.
You can check out a video I posted of the route on Instagram here!
I will continue to post videos of my efforts on this particular route, until it gets taken down or I send it ;)
Do you have an approach you use to help get you out of a climbing funk?
What types of routes just “call to you”?
What is your climbing style?
Comment with your experiences, I love hearing from you!
